Friday, 31 October 2014

Ellis Faas

Ellis Faas began as a photography student from the Netherlands that used herself as her model which is where her interest in make-up sparked from, as she used make-up to change her look each time. Although after high school she thought photography was the path she really wanted to take her career in, as a little girl she used to put make-up on her school friends and even her brother. She began to dislike the technical side of photography and her passion for make-up grew, so she moved from Amsterdam to Paris to study make-up professionally at Christian Chauveaus Technical School of Artistic Make-up. After completing her qualification in Paris she moved back home to Amsterdam and worked there for a while on various shoots for magazines and a couple of films, but made the decision to move to London to develop her work and career. In London she did a mixture of special effects make-up and make-up for music videos as well, before moving back to Amsterdam yet again after pregnancy to raise her child. The work didn't stop here, she opened a portrait studio called Face Value where she would both apply make-up on clients and then take their photograph herself. This was a huge hit as it was the first of its kind in the Netherlands and she was very prosperous. Alongside her work at the studio she frequently worked alongside famous fashion photographer Inez van Lamsweerde and remained in the industry. Mario Testino, a Peruvian fashion photographer visited the Netherlands to shoot for L'Uomo Vogue and discovered Ellis whilst on the search for a make-up artist in the area. Faas travelled with Testino to Paris, London, New York and LA and shortly after she found herself in charge of a huge team of make-up artists, showing them how to apply make-up she had designed for Lagerfelds shows for Chanel and Fendi. She has been described by Vogue Paris as one of the most influential make-up artists of her time and has worked with some of the most prominent designers, photographers, models, stylists, hair stylists and make-up brands (MAC, Clinique, Lancome etc.) and had her work published in some of the biggest magazines we know today. Now she has her own brand under her own name which sells quality and professional make-up and tools for make-up artists which she created in 2009.





 Sources:
http://www.ellisfaas.com/brand/about/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mario_Testino
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ellis_Faas
Images sourced from Google images

Seven Photographs that changed fashion

After watching this fascinating documentary about a year ago I was reminded of it again this week and was more than excited to watch it again with a couple of my class mates. In this documentary British photographer Rankin takes us on a short historical journey of fashion photography and seven of the most famous and iconic photographs of all time which he then recreates to the best of his ability which a modern twist. I think what interests me the most is the difference between the original image compared to Rankins version and also the difference in outcome due to old technology vs. the new. These original images by David Bailey, Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, Cecil Beaton, Erwin Blumenfeld, Herb Ritts and Guy Bourdin are so iconic aqnd influencial that even those who have never studied photography or had an interest in the fashion/photography world will be able to recognise at least one of these photographs. 


Cecil Beaton, Hat Box, 1934
 
Helmut Newton, 1975, Rue Aubriot Vogue
 Erwin Blumenfeld, 1950, Vogue Cover
Guy Bourdin, 1970, Untitled
Richard Avedon, 1955, Dovima with elephants 
 
Herb Ritts, 1984, Fred with tyres

 David Bailey, 1963, Jean Shrimpton
This image is my favourite out of the seven, it was a very hard decision choosing as I also love the Helmut Newton and Erwin Blumenfeld photographs, however I chose this image as I adore how it shows how beautiful Jean Shrimpton is. The lighting and shadows show the contours of her body and her flattering profile and I love the elegant position she is standing in. David Bailey and Jean Shrimpton were lovers at the time, so I thought it was a nice idea that Rankin chose his model for the photograph to be his girlfriend Tuuli. I prefur the original photograph as it is just so timeless and stunning. I think it the sharpness of Jeans flawless profile that stands out most to me in this photograph and that Bailey used a sheet of card instead of a wind machine to blow her hair back so gracefully in the image. Rankins version is a great image also however to me just looks like any other fashion photograph, where as Baileys is a striking and well deserved iconic image with a beautifully immaculate and soft finish. The beauty of Jean Shrimpton in this image made me look into more of her portraits and I was interested in the relationship with Bailey and her at the time, I discovered this film that was made in 2012 called We'll Take Manhattan which is about the love affair between the model and photographer in the 60's: http://www.iwannawatch.to/2012/01/well-take-manhattan-2012/


 References:
http://vimeo.com/60749359 - The Seven photographs that changed fashion
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Bailey
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1885440/
Images sourced from Google images.



Thursday, 30 October 2014

Remembering Kevyn Aucoin

Aucoin had a keen interest in make-up from a young age and would often make up his sisters and take photographs with a Polaroid camera afterwards, he is considered to be the first and one of the best celebrity make-up artists of all time who was loved for not just his skill, but his personality. Aucoin had a troubled upbringing, brought up in an Catholic adopted family. He suffered bullying at school for his sexuality as he realised he was gay early on in his childhood and severe discrimination and abuse afterwards leading to him dropping out of school. After dropping out of school he enrolled in beauty school to pursue his dream of becoming a make-up artist and ended up teaching the class himself! He began a job in an exclusive womens store at the age of 18 in Lafayette but found that women were unhappy to have their make-up done by a man, so he moved to Louisiana to try and start up his career there where he suffered some traumatising and horrifying violent attacks which led to him and his boyfriend of the time moving to New York in 1983 to start up fresh. 


He began applying make-up on test models free of charge to practise and build up his portfolio where he finally had a turn of well deserved luck and was discovered by Vogue and worked alongside photographer Steven Meisel. He went on to do over 18 photoshoots for Vogue and in 3 years in the late 80's he had completed 9 Vogue covers in a row and also 7 covers for Cosmopolitan! During the highest point of his career he would be booked up for months at a time and could charge up to $6000 per session, he was one of the best paid make-up artists in history, incredible?! He wrote three bestselling books, which I have put on my Christmas wishlist: The Art of Make-up, Face Forward and Making Faces. The books featured celebrities, regular people and even his mum in costumes, special effects and beauty make-up, made up to look like historical figures and other celebrities. He made up Lisa Marie Presley into Marilyn Monroe, Winona Ryder into Elizabeth Taylor and Martha Stewart into Veronica Lake.



Lisa Marie Presley as Marilyn Monroe

 He became Creative Director for Revlons Ultima II line at the young age of 21 and also launched a line with Revlon which catered for all skin tones called The New Naked before he created a line under his own name (Kevyn Aucoin Beauty) in 2001. The New Nakeds was a very influential line as before there were separate lines for light and dark skin, soon after brands such as Bobbi Brown, Laura Mercier and MAC created similar versions of this collection. Today he remains the only make-up artist to ever have received a CFDA Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America which was awarded to him in 1994.
The celebrities he worked with include Courtney Love, Kate Moss, Cher, Naomi Campbell, Gwyneth Paltrow, Lisa Marie Presley, Janet Jackson and many more.




Some of Aucoin's beauty sketches

Kevyn suffered a rare condition called acromegaly, a tumour on his pituitary gland which he had had much of his life undiagnosed, which caused him to grow two inches, two shoe sizes and two ring sizes in the last five years of his life. He became addicted to a large variety of prescription medication he took to help with the pain caused by his disease. Towards the near end of his life he frequently passed out, including at shoots which sparked great concern from his friends, clients, partners and family. He eventually passed away in 2002 aged 40, his death shocked the fashion world.



References:
http://nymag.com/nymetro/urban/gay/features/6236/
http://www.anothermag.com/current/view/4039/Remembering_Kevyn_Aucoin
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kevyn_Aucoin#Death

Images sourced from Google images.


Monday, 20 October 2014

Contemporary portraiture & my own


I continued my research looking at symbolism and contemporary portraits of people that represent wealth, luxury and high profile status in society today. The portrait I chose was from the April 2014 Vogue issue with a spread featuring 'KimYe', AKA Kim Kardashian, Kanye West and their baby North. In this photo the 'perfect family' are pictured on the most luxury style private jet you could imagine with Kim wearing a wedding style satin dress from the Lanvin Blanche collection by Alber Elbaz and Kayne in a Louis Vuitton coat, both very expensive designer brands and a dress that retailed at $6960! Kanye and Kim are known to be very materialistic and into fashion and not afraid to flaunt what they have and this photo I feel shows this perfectly. They all look very relaxed and content (Why wouldn't you be?!) and the space they are in also gives off the feeling of being calm as it is spotlessly clean and neutral, classy colours are present such a browns and creams. I think the aim of this photograph was to depict an image that is very regal, while showing their wealth, happiness and luxury lifestyle to the world. This photo was taken when baby North was just ten months old so wouldn't know what was going on during this shoot and she had just been born into a world of comforts and indulgence.

Below is my own portrait I had my friend Sammie take of me in her bedroom. In the picture I am holding my favourite Vivienne Westwood handbag which I am very proud of and surrounded by large fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle and LOVE, make-up books and sitting on Sammies Cath Kidston duvet as I work at CK part-time. This is to show I am very into my fashion and fund my shopping addiction with my weekend job as a sales assistant working at Cath Kidston in West Quay. The fashion magazines are where I look for inspiration for make-up and hair design as it is the field I am most influenced by, I adore the looks and styles found in these kinds of magazines and at the moment make-up and hair is taking up the largest part of my life, so this image represents me pretty well for now.


References:
http://www.vogue.com/865144/kim-kardashian-kanye-west-cover/
http://teamkanyedaily.com/video/kanye-west-kim-kardashian-vogue-april-2014-issue/

Sunday, 19 October 2014

Colour theory

The first colour wheel was create by Sir Isaac Newton in 1666, it is a useful guide to colour mixing and being able to see the visual effects of certain colour combinations. Colour harmonies are when certain colour combinations are visually pleasing. 
The primary colours are red, yellow and blue, the idea is that by mixing these colours together you can create any other colour, these are called the secondary colours. The secondary colours are orange, green and purple and by mixing these you create the tertiary colours, by this theory the range of colours it is possible to create by mixing these are endless.
Colour context is how colours behave in relation to other colours and shapes. For example;
the red square stands out most on the black background and also looks larger than on the other backgrounds due to the high contrast.
 
 
Complimentary colours are those opposite to each other in the colour wheel, for example; red and green. These colour combinations create the maximum contrast and looks best when a warm colour is placed against a cool colour, e.g. red against green-blue.



Analogous colours are those next to each other on the colour wheel, they go well together and are visually pleasing to the eye. It is quite similar to the monochromatic theme.



Monochromatic colour schemes include all the shades and hues of one colour from lightest to darkest. I like this colour scheme as you can choose to go either very dark, bright and garish or subtle and muted. For example:





The achromatic colour scheme  is very similar to monochromatic, but it only involves white, greys and all the shades in between to black with no colour present.



 

Thursday, 16 October 2014

London trip

On Friday 10th October we were given the great opportunity to visit London for the day to look at the Tudor portrait exhibition at The National Portrait Gallery and also to visit some make-up stores in the central London area with the benefits of special discounts if we purchased anything on the day. I really enjoyed this day as my hometown is London and I have missed it a lot! Of course an educational trip that involves discounted make-up shopping is always a plus!

The National Portrait Gallery:
We had to look at the Elizabethan portraiture and choose a painting that visually engaged us. I chose this painting which was made in the early 17th century, but was found to have an overpainting from the 18th century. The reason I like it the most I think is the colours used, the look different to me than those most used in the majority of Elizabeths portraits which is why it took my attention. I like the silvery blue toned colours on her gown that contrast with the gold and deep shaded jewels. What she is wearing clearly shows who she is and her status in society. While Elizabeth grew older her outfits were said to become more and more extravagant which makes me think this portrait would have been made in her late forties/early fifties maybe, however this is hard to tell due to the make-up she is wearing which was used to cover any imperfections and signs of aging. Elizabeth also used to have portraits painted to make her look beautiful and had any she didn't like destroyed and re-painted to her liking, which makes it quite hard to judge her age from them. During this period only the noble and prestige could afford to wear jewels and pearls and in this portrait her dress is encrusted with both, she also has masses of pearls dripping from her neck and decorating the accessory she is wearing on her head. This portrait in my opinion is one of the most flattering of Elizabeth and where she looks most beautiful.

                                                                                                                                                                                                          
As I have grown up in London I am pretty familiar with the central London area and had visited all of the stores we went to except the MAC Pro store more than once. I love Illamasqua and how their store looks, the Once collection theme made for a fantasy, fairy-like garden experience and everything looked elegant and chic. I have wanted to purchase one of Illamasqua's pigments for a long time now and was immediately drawn to static (an iridescent pink/silver) after seeing a look on the Illamasqua instagram page where it was used as a highlighter, however as I had a limited amount of money to spend that day I wanted to buy something I would use more often so opted for Beguile (shimmery white). I then went and had a look around Charles Fox but as we had a limited amount of time to get round the stores and back to the coach I headed promptly to the MAC pro store as they were offering us Solent students a one day only opportunity for 35% off all their products so I had a list I made on the coach at the ready. I purchased Fix+ spray as I have been wanting to try it for ages after many recommendations on the internet through make-up artists and fanatics I follow, beauty bloggers and also YouTubers. So far I am really impressed with it and think it will become a permanent part of not just my own make-up bag, but also my kit as it is so versatile. It can be used after moisturising and before base application for a smoother and fresher finish and then a spray again after the base has settled on the skin to set it. Fix+ also brightens and freshens the face after a few hours of make-up application when the skin starts to dry out and also to wet pigments for a more dramatic and intense look! I also bought the loose pigments in Blue Brown and Naked, I am a huge fan of the pigments after purchasing the shade Vanilla earlier on this year and can't wait to get my hands on more to add to my collection. For the lips I purchased a lip pencil in Stone which is a grey shade which I think is beautiful for an Autumn/Winter lip look, and also to create the famous Kylie Jenner pout everyone is after at the present! I wanted a matte nude lipstick for everyday wear for a long time but have struggled to find out that wasn't too pink and wasn't too brown that suited my skin and didn't wash me out too much, Honey-Love is the shade of dreams for me! I was very happy with my shopping and really enjoyed my day! My only regret is not have more money to buy even more for my kit and of course for myself from MAC as the discount was incredibly generous and made a big difference compared to our usual 15% off!

Wednesday, 15 October 2014

The Westmore family

The Westmore family were the biggest family in Hollywood make-up artistry after introducing make-up to the motion-picture world. George Westmore born on the Isle of Wight in the UK in 1879  began working as a hairdresser before moving to LA and starting Hollywoods first film make-up department in Selig studio 1917, since then four generations of the Westmore family have followed in his footsteps as make-up artists.
During the 1920's Georges work became overshadowed by the work of his sons and due to a second failing marriage and other issues he sadly committed suicide in 1931. His sons Perc, Wally, Frank, Ern, Bud and Monte became head make-up artists at four major studios and were successful within both the beauty and horror areas with their innovative approaches.
They built the House of Westmore salon which served the public as well as celebrities. Later generations continued the name and worked  prominently in the make-up industry as theatrical make-up artists but also as therapeutic make-up artists helping cover the scars of victims of disease, burns and other accidents. 



Sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westmore_family
http://www.filmreference.com/Writers-and-Production-Artists-Vi-Win/The-Westmore-Family.html
Images sourced from Google images

Who's played Elizabeth?

My favourite of all the actresses to have played Elizabeth is Cate Blanchett in the 1997 film Elizbabeth. You got to see her transform from the young princess Elizabeth into old Elizabeth the aging monarch. She even had her hairline shaved back about 3" multiple times throughout filming in commitment to the role! Jenny Shirecore was the hair and make-up designer and Anita Burger was the make-up artist. She played Elizabeth again Elizabeth: The Golden Age 2007 which Jenny Shirecore designed the hair and make-up for again.



 The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex 1939 starring Hollywood star Bette Davis had some incredible make-up transformations. Bette Davis was known at the time for her big eyes and beauty however was unrecognisable in this film. Like Cate Blanchett, Bette had her hairline shaved back 3", her eyebrows removed and eye bag pouches applied for the role, she became the first actress to appear bald on screen. The make-up for Bette Davis in this film was done by Perc Westmore.To have the hairline and eyebrows shaved for roles in films it showed huge commitment as there was a risk that it would not grow back properly or at all due to the sensitive nature of the areas. Bette played Elizabeth again 25 years later in The Virgin Queen and had her hairline shaved back again by Perc Westmore the make-up artist meaning she had to wear a cap to the Oskars to hide it.



Glenda Jackson played Elizabeth R in 1971. The show had a sepia toned look to it and the make-up was quite ugly and scary and didn't look very Elizabethan, although you could tell what it was supposed to be. Glenda had 70's style eyebrows and contouring and her lips were made to look thin by drawing the lines inside the lip line instead of on. Her make-up artist was Dawn Alcock.



 Anne-Marie Duff played Elizabeth in 2005 in the four part TV series The Virgin Queen. The SFX make-up and prosthetics was done by Neill Gorton and the head designer was Karen Hartley. Lauge Voigt sculpted her stomach and breasts for this.

Tuesday, 14 October 2014

Elizabethan cosmetics

In this post I am going to talk about what was used to achieve the desirable pale complexion, rosy cheeks, red lips and red/yellow hair amongst the rich and upper class women during The Golden Era. If you had this look it would show which class you belonged in as the rich and noble would stay in while the poor would go out to work and therefore have darker skin from being out in the sun. 

To lighten the skin a concoction called Ceruse was used which was a mixture of white lead and vinegar, which was highly poisonous and bad for the skin. The mixture had a paste-like texture and was mixed with water or egg whites before being applied to the skin. As well as being used for making the skin appear to be a lot whiter than usual it was also used to cover the signs of aging and scars from smallpox which was a common disease at the time. It was so desirable to be pale that Elizabeth would have veins painted onto her skin to create the illusion that she was so pale that she was almost translucent! As Ceruse was poisonous over time the skin would become quite ugly in texture and had a grey look to it, the result of the poisoning also caused hair loss and many women lost their eyebrows so replaced them by sticking mouse fur where their eyebrows would have been. Other symptoms and side effects of lead poisoning can be found here: http://www.lead.org.au/fs/fst7.html
A face paint made from plant roots and leaves was also used as an alternative to the lead mixture.

An expensive rouge was made to tint the cheeks and lips made out of Cochineal which was crushed beetle, this was the most commonly heard of cosmetic for the rosy cheek and lip look. Madder was also used to achieve pink cheeks, which is an Asian plant with red roots. To create a redder look on the lips a substance called Vermillion was used which is a red pigment sourced from mercury sulphide.

For the eyes kohl was used to darken the eyelashes and the rim of the eyes which is quite similar to how we darken our eyes today. More extremely women would of Belladonna, a drug made from the leaves of deadly nightshade which contains Atrophine that is used as a muscle relaxant. Tudor women would use this to dilate their pupils for a bright eyed look.

Everything had to be lighter to be on trend during this time, even the hair. Women would dye their hair yellow using a mixture of saffron, cumin seed, celandine and oil. Women who wanted different coloured hair or were suffering from hair loss would shave of their hair and wear only wigs, but this was very expensive so only the very rich could afford to do this.

Websites used:
http://www.sixwives.info/tudor-make-up.htm
http://fascinatinghistory.blogspot.co.uk/2005/04/deadly-makeup.html
http://www.elizabethan-era.org.uk/elizabethan-make-up.htm
http://beautifulwithbrains.com/2010/05/20/beauty-history-the-elizabethan-era/
 



 

Wednesday, 8 October 2014

Queen Elizabeth I - The ideal Tudor woman

During the Elizabethan era there was a completely different idea to beauty and fashion than today, and Queen Elizabeth was the woman everyone wanted to look like, dress like, to be. Poor people had images of her in their homes. These days there are so many actresses, models, celebrities, different scenes and styles of how different people like to look, but in the Elizabethan times it was only Elizabeth people had to look up to and only one fashion. The paler the skin the better, this showed signs of wealth. Poor people would go out and work hard outside so they had darker skin (Which is the desirable look presently), than the rich people who had people working for them, hence staying inside and having paler skin. It was in fact so desirable to have pale skin that some people, including the Queen would have veins painted onto their skin to make them look so pale that they appeared to be translucent! Rosy pink cheeks and lips were also a common look to accompany the light face, this can also be seen in all of Elizabeths portraits. Of course the red hair was another characteristic Elizabeth is strongly known and remembered for. All of these traits were achieved through use of cosmetics and hair dye which I will be speaking about in my next post.
Elizabeth had over 80 wigs and was very vain. She would have portraits she thought 'ugly' destroyed and insisted they be corrected so that no flaws were ever shown in these paintings. By the age of 28 she had small pox and her skin was ruined, she covered this with a lot of make-up, and as she got older she refused to have mirrors in her room. She spoke a lot of her beauty but when others told her how beautiful she was when she was younger she would say that she was never beautiful.


Elizabethan portraiture & a contemporary sitter

Unknown girl, 1569

                                                                            Master of the Countess of Warwick,  oil on panel, The Tate Gallery, London.

I chose this portrait as the colours stuck out to me when first flicking through images in this book, I love the rich burgundy and golds. You can tell straight away the girl in the portrait comes from a rich background because of her clothing, the colours she is wearing, the jewellery around her chest and on her fingers and also the fact that no poor person would have had their portrait painted during these times. Her outfit is embroidered with flowers and she has feathers on her hat. She also has a flower behind her left ear. Everything about this portrait suggests she is important, including the way she is posing in the image.  Although she has her hair in an up-do in this portrait, her face looks quite young, fresh and innocent. She looks like a typical Elizabethan wealthy woman because of her very pale complexion, pink rosy cheeks and lips and fire red hair like Queen Elizabeth I.

Image sourced from A Visual History of Costume - The Sixteenth Century by Jane Ashelford
http://www.kateemersonhistoricals.com/vonsnakenborg,helena%28resized%29.jpg



I would love to use Lily Cole as a model for a New Elizabethan inspired fashion hair and make-up look as I think her stunning red hair, naturally pale skin, round face shape and blue eyes would look amazing for this theme. I found the below painting while looking for photographs of Lily on the internet and came across it by chance, the way the hair and make-up looks reminds me a lot of the Elizabethan era.


                            Mock Tudor 5 (Lily Cole after Arthur Elgort for British Vogue), 2011, oil on canvas, 20x20cm
http://www.cathylomax.co.uk/pages/year/2011/mock_tudor/mocktudor5.html


Again this picture of Lily in 'Pictorial' by Richard Burbridge in Vogue Italia 2005 has a Elizabethan/Queen-like feel to it to me. The make-up reminds me of a contemporary fashion make-up look inspired somewhat by Queen Elizabeth I.

 'Pictorial' by Richard Burbridge, Vogue Italia 2005

Images sourced from Google images and Pinterest.

Tuesday, 7 October 2014

A small introduction to myself and our first project brief - The Elizabethan era

I am a 20 year old aspiring make-up artist from London, now based in Southampton studying at Solent University on the BA Make-up and Hair Design programme. I have always had a keen interest in make-up from a young age and come from an art based background. Throughout high school and college I have always loved art, studying it at GCSE level, onto doing a BTEC level 3 diploma in Art & Design, specialising in Fashion Design during my second year. It was during my BTEC I first properly looked at the possibility of studying make-up and hair at a higher education level after attending a short course at the prestigious London College of Fashion called Find Your Fashion. In 2013 I began a VTCT level 3 diploma in Theatrical Media Make-up in which we touched briefly on all areas of make-up and hair design and this made me know that this was the creative industry I wanted to be apart of and gave me a hunger to learn more. Apart from the VTCT course and some volunteering for a dance company at a local theatre, I have no other experience in make-up and hair design which is why I am so excited to be studying on this programme at Solent, which I believe will give me the skills and knowledge to be a part of this amazing industry.

When we were told about our first project 'The New Elizabethans' I was very excited as I have always been interested in history, as well as the make-up, hair and fashion of the era's. I am by no means very educated on the Elizabethan era, my only knowledge is from TV documentaries and series, films and what we were taught at school as part of our compulsory education. I also chose historical make-up as a topic to study during my second year of my BTEC Art & Design course, so have looked only very briefly at the desired styles of make-up and hair and what cosmetics were used at the time which fascinates me a lot. What really interests me about historical make-up and hair is how drastically the fashions change over time, how looks come back and how it also plays a big part in inspiring beauty today, particularly shown in runway shows and imagery by huge designers. The Elizabethan era has a very recognisable look and will be very exciting to learn in more depth about. The first thing that comes to mind when I think about the Elizabethan period is Queen Elizabeth I herself, the fashion muse and lady-to-be of the whole era. I am also very interested in learning about society at the time, class and what it was like to be alive then. Certain things about the era remind me of things that are still very prominent today; eg. very strong conflicts caused by religion and belief. As I love fashion make-up and hair I am looking forward to designing contemporary and exciting make-up and hair looks for this project, while learning improving my skills as a hair and make-up artist.

 

Charles Fox visit




On our last day of induction week we were spoiled one last time with a visit from two girls from Charles Fox who showed us a whole bunch of products from the ranges and explained their uses and how to use them, followed by an opportunity to order some if we wished with a special 20% off discount! I really enjoyed this and learnt a lot about the products. Having used Kryolan before I am familiar with some of the bits already, however managed to create a little (big) list of some things I will be picking up from the store in Covent Garden when we go on a course trip to London on October 10th. I found looking at a range of products for use in all different fields of make-up artistry amazing, from the beauty/fashion section to the special effects/prosthetics section. They stock a huge range of products that I had no idea existed or what they are used for. It really made me think about the science that goes into creating high quality products that help create high quality levels of work.

"Make-up is science"

Charles Fox was founded by Arnold Langer, a chemistry student fascinated by the glitz, glamour and culture of 1920's Berlin. He combined his passion for science and theatre to create make-up for professional use. His make-up showed colours and textures never seen before on stage and screen. It has been run by three generations of the Langer family to keep up the amazing standards and develop over the decades. Now owned by Kryolan, the products are created for professional use for professional make-up artists, but also available to anyone of the general public if they wish to use it.

I was very inspired by this talk and felt that the lady who came in really made an effort to give us as much advice and tips possible in how to be successful in the industry. I have a whole new level of respect for Charles Fox and would love to do work experience with them one day, even though the waiting list is huge!

Illamasqua demonstration

During induction week on Wednesday 24th September we were lucky enough to receive a visit from Illamasqua, a very prominent British independant make-up brand. Illamasqua are one of my favourite brands as when I first discovered them I immediatley got the impression that they were different from other brands I have come across. They are different, very creative and there is something for everyone. I love the look of the counter at Selfridges, and most of all the flagship store on Beak Street of Soho in my hometown, London. It was initially the look of the stores that brought me in. I already had seen the work of Alex Box the Creative Director of Illamasqua who is one of my biggest inspirations in the make-up industry.

The members of the team who visited were Spob O'Brien (Head of Professional Development), Charlotte Savoury (International Brand Ambassador and Make-up Artist) and Josephine O'Brien (Events Manager). While Spob gave us a very inspiring and interesting talk about her experience and background in the make-up industry, Charlotte demonstrated a look from the Sorapol SS15 runway show while talking us through what she was doing and what products she was using step by step (all Illamasqua). The Sorapol show was inspired by the themes of African tribalism, Marie Antoinette and the Renaissance which worked perfectly with Illamasquas new collection Once. 



After the demonstration we were put into groups of 4 or 5 people and had to create a make-up look with a limited amount of products from the range shared between the whole class and no brushes and we had to create a story to go with our finished look. We had roughly half an hour to do all of this, it was to create the feel of a backstage situation when the courier hadn't turned up with all the make-up and equipment and we had to work with what we had. We decided to each take on a different role in order to get the task completed as efficiently and easily as possible, one of us wrote the background story of our look, one sat as the model, one helped decide on products and collected the products and two people were in charge of the application. We had Amelia as our model and decided to use the colour of her hair as inspiration for the story. As Amelias hair is blue it reminded us of the ocean, sea life and mermaids. Our idea was 'A mermaid washed up on the shore and laying on the sand, battered and bruised by the storm. She hasn't slept in days and is unaware of her surroundings.'.




Products:
- Skin Base Foundation 02 as a base
- Brow Cake in Gaze on the eyes for shadow
- Gleam in Supernatural to add a glow to the face and cheekbone area
- Cream blusher for lips (Can't remember the shade! Dixie/Seduce)

Our outcome was quite subtle with a grunge feel. I am happy with our outcome as we worked with what we had well as a team in a short space of time. I was very impressed with the finished look as it was applied with only fingers and cotton buds! If we had a longer time to plan and more tools I would have liked to have created a more dramatic look.
 

Saturday, 4 October 2014

Induction Week - Getting to know each other

On our first day of uni we were asked to get into groups of four to present our mood boards from the summer project brief "If I could...I would" to each other and explain why we put on them what we did. After, one member from each group had to briefly introduce their group and tell the rest of the class a fact about each person. This was quite a fun and interesting activity as it helped us to start learning names and what areas of make-up design people are hoping to specialise in. It made me realise that while we all share a passion for the same thing, everyone is still so different with their ideas and where they want to take it. I took some notes while my group were sharing their mood boards, I worked with Sammie Crayford, Jade Holmes and Rebekah Newman.

Sammie:
Sammies mood board was very different all over and didn't stick to a specific theme or style of make-up. This is because she is unsure of what area she will specialise in, however she has a strong interest in make-up for special effects and prosthetics and this is ideally what she thinks she would like to do at present. Sammie added some images of three prominent figures in the make-up industry who are all very different, this is because she is inspired by all different kinds of make-up. She chose Nick Dudman, Pat McGrath and Charlotte Tilbury. She said that although it is aiming high, she would like to one day work alongside one of them as their work really influences her to work hard at her make-up. On the mood board there were also images of some of Sammies favourite brands and magazines that she likes to use and look at for inspiration. Sammie would like to live in New York and work there for a while after she graduates as she feels there are a lot of opportunities to be had there. Sammie was pleased with her mood board as it is true to her at present, she is looking forward with an open mind to what she will learn while studying at Solent.

Jade:
Jades mood board was split into two sections, one showed her interest in vintage make-up, plus sized modelling and alternative fashion and the other showed her passion for prosthetics and special effects make-up which is the area she wants to work in following in the footsteps of her idol Jaremy Aiello. Jaremy Aiello did the make-up for Shutter Island, The Hills Have Eyes and The Walking Dead. Although Jades passion lies with the TV & film make-up industry she loves vintage make-up and alternative fashion and make-up. Hayley Hasslehoff is her plus sized inspiration and Jade would like to do make-up for plus sized models on photo shoots. Jade also loves Jeffrey Star who is a make-up artist, model and brand owner with a dramatic alternative look. Jade wasn't happy with her mood board as she felt it didn't speak for itself and wasn't clear enough however I found the contrast really interesting and look forward to see how she combines the two during the next three years.

Bekah:
Bekahs mood board was very clear in saying what she wants to do in her career in the make-up industry. Bekah has always loved fashion and fashion make-up and wants to be a freelance make-up artist in the fashion industry working on fashion shows and photo shoots. She would also like to have a YouTube channel and post tutorials and beauty reviews, this was partly influenced by her online idols, Pixie Woo and Tania Burr. London Fashion Week was a big source of inspiration for this brief for Bekah and she would like to have worked at all of the Fashion Weeks by the end of her career. Bekah was brought up in Kent and has always wanted to live in London and New York, after graduating she would like to move to both for a while to work and gain new experiences. Bekah loves fashion make-up as she said it has no boundaries, a statement I completely agree on.

Induction week - Bag head masks!

During induction week we had to make bag heads using some materials provided like glitter glue, various kinds of coloured paper, rhinestones etc. and of course, paper bags! Our course leader Sharon showed us a short film she had made during the summer using the bag head technique about a villain in a small and rural world.
The bags had to be a representation of what direction we would like to take our make-up career in and generally where we would like to be in 5 years time. This task followed on from our summer project brief "If I could...I would", so I used my mood board to influence the way I decorated the bag. 
I cut out of red card a huge pair of lips, I then used the multi-coloured rhinestones to make some jazzy fashion brows and I used star stickers to decorate a closed pair of eyes I drew on using pen. This represented my interest in creative fashion make-up. I then made out of thin tissue paper what was supposed to be a veil to show my interest in bridal make-up. As I had time left over I made some flowers out of scrunched up tissue paper to decorate the veil.


 

Wednesday, 1 October 2014

Induction Week - Shop visits

On our first day of uni everyone was a mixture of excited and nervous to begin our adventure into the world of hair and make-up and enjoyed a few fun activities to help us get to know each other and a taste for what is yet to come. The activities including a talk from a couple of third year girls who told us briefly about their Solent experience on the course and a few tips and tricks to help us along the way. This was nice as I felt like I could relate to the students as they have been in the same position as us.
On day one we did an orientation task in which we had to visit a selection of make-up counters in town and review what we noticed and liked about them. We visited MAC, Bobbi Brown, Laura Mercier and Benefit Cosmetics in John Lewis in West Quay Shopping Center and Smashbox in Boots.

First I visited MAC, my first impressions were that the special edition collections are always the first thing you notice when you enter, the current being A Novel Romance. It was displayed on a table when you entered the counter with large promotional images on either side of the tills. I feel like MAC is aimed at young women who love make-up as well as professions, they have a large selection of different products available in a huge range of colours from more subtle to very loud. I like that the counters are black as it has a very slick and edgy effect and makes all of the products and colours stand out which attracts me. I also noticed how organised each section was which is another thing I love about all MAC counters. When I asked about the hero product I was not at all surprised to find out that it was their favourite lippy, Ruby Woo.







Secondly we went to the Bobbi Brown which has quite a different feel to it. Bobbi Brown was equally as organised MAC but had a more classy, mature vibe.The counter itself had a mixture of gold and display tables and stands for a luxury feel. The make-up was a more neutral toned palette of browns, golds, pale pinks and beiges apart from the blushers, lipsticks and lip glosses in glorious reds, pinks and corals which really stood out and attracted me over. I really liked that they had a display wall of the best sellers in a pigeon hole style numbered down to the very best seller which is their Long-Wear Gel Eye-Liner.



The Laura Mercier counter didn't at first catch my attention as it isn't as in-your-face as MAC, and not as opulent as Bobbi Brown. I liked that the counter was very matte looking and elegant. The products would make for a very beautiful, natural and fresh look with a very nude and muted tones. I think Laura Mercier appeals mostly to the older generations due to the way the counter looks, the products they sell and the colours and textures available. The best sellers where advertised on a sign by the till right next to the main display table, they were the Foundation Primer, Tinted Moisturiser Creme Compact and the Secret Camouflage & Secret Concealer.





When you walk into a Benefit it just screams every girls dream with its eye-catching, pink, French boutique style set up. Most make-up counters I come across are black or white, so when you pass Benefit you can't help but go over and have a look. Pink is one of my favourite colours so being in a pink room surrounded by make-up in gorgeous packaging with quirky sales tags is a heaven to me. Benefit aims their products mainly towards older teenage girls and young women and has a product for every situation at quite affordable prices and thats why they are so popular. Their best selling product is the UK's number one best selling mascara They're Real! As someone who has used this product I can safely say its as amazing as they say it is.





I had a look around a Smashbox counter properly for the first time and was really impressed with what they sell as well as the customer service and help I received by the lovely girl working there. My first impressions of Smashbox was that it looks like its for professional use and would work really well on photoshoots, but also would attract a lot of young women who love make-up. After speaking to the Smashbox girl I learnt that it was in fact Smashbox that invented the first ever primer! I found that really interesting as although I have heard of Smashbox, I didn't know a lot about it at all. I got a free sample of the Photo Finish Primer which I'm enjoying and will definitely be purchasing some products from Smashbox in the near future!